Earlier this year a hot tip took me up a steep, twisting, rain-slicked road to the top of Diamond Mountain, in the northern part of the valley. I bumped over the rocky soil of a just-planted vineyard in an open ATV with Jasud Estate’s passionate, bearded owner, Ketan Mody, who didn’t seem to notice we were getting soaked. Later, when we tasted his first wines in the tiny cabin where he lives, I decided, despite being cold and wet, that this was one of the valley’s most fascinating new ventures.

Napa has about 500 brick-and-mortar wineries, but its terroir, prestige, and sheer geological beauty attract a never-ending stream of ambitious vintners gambling everything (or at least a lot of money) to make great wine. I sniff out promising newcomers in such local restaurants as Press in St. Helena, wine bars like Cadet in the city of Napa, talking with winemaker friends, and sipping and spitting at Napa Valley Premiere, the annual trade barrel tasting.

I’m happy to report that not every current new wine worth sampling costs $100 and up (though many do). Nor are all of them those powerful, concentrated cabernet sauvignons for which Napa is known. The restless younger generation of vintners is expanding beyond that model, aiming for reds with more elegance and experimenting with grape varieties such as syrah and riesling.

Here are my top new names to look for, plus bottles of note.

Calder Wine Co.
Winemaker Rory Williams comes with a solid Napa pedigree—his father John Williams owns Frog’s Leap winery and his mother Julie Johnson owns Tres Sabores. Williams’s goal with his own label is to champion riesling and save long-neglected red grapes, such as carbon, which was popular in the 1960s.
2012 Calder Meyer Vineyard Charbono ($28)—This fragrant, soft, plummy, food-friendly red has lively acidity and dusty tannins.
2014 Calder Dry Riesling Rachel Rossi Vineyard ($20)—From a 50-year-old organic vineyard, this refreshing, citrusy white features mineral tones and a savory edge.

Beta Wines and Jasud Estate
Ketan Mody worked at wineries as far flung as New Zealand before signing on for the harvest at Napa’s Harlan Estate. He lucked out in finding his 45-acre Diamond Mountain property in 2008, planting the first vines in 2014. Expect Jasud Estate cabernet to hit the market in 2020, but meanwhile he’s peddling his stellar Beta Wines, made with purchased grapes from Mount Veeder, just over the line in Sonoma.
2012 Beta Cabernet Sauvignon ($80, mailing list only)—Very lush and almost juicy, the second vintage has a floral aroma and tobacco, cassis, and mineral flavors.

Continue reading about the Hottest New Names in Napa Wine