Speaking at the annual Koshu of Japan press and trade tasting at the Halkin Hotel in central London, Wadsack said that two important things had happened during the seven years in which Koshu of Japan’s producers had had a presence in the UK, which had “increased the intrigue in the variety”.

First, the former Waitrose buyer said, was an effect of economic recession, which had made consumers more fastidious and explorative when choosing wine; second, a greater sensitivity to the relationship between food and wine.

“When you’re not in a recession people like to spend money on Bordeaux and Burgundy, and Cabernet and Syrah. I think when a recession hits, people start to look around or something more interesting. They care more about how much interest and value there is in their wine,” he said.

“Also there has definitely been a move towards a better understanding of the relationship between food and wine. People care about wines overshadowing the food, they care about balance and they care about an evening where if they’re having seven or eight courses it makes sense that there is a beginning, a middle and an end. I think there is a refined sophistication to everything they do in Japan, and this is manifest in the wine.”

Commenting on the likelihood of Koshu gaining serious traction in the UK market, Wadsack said he was convinced the day would come, particularly in the on-trade, when its gastronomic potential would be realised. Koshu’s trademark low alcohol, delicate aromatics and pronounced minerality were a perfect foil for oysters or delicate white fish dishes, he felt.

“I think everyone has their day,” he said. “There is genuinely something contributed by Koshu in the market.

“When you look at things like turbot or halibut, these are very delicate flavours and I don’t think any [other] wine whispers quiet enough for those kinds of dishes. Even things like sole meunière – the only reason why sole meunière goes with wine is because you’ve covered it in butter! If you grill a sole, I’d rather drink sake than wine – unless [it’s] Koshu. And Koshu works because you’ve got the same aromatic spectrum as wines form Europe but at a lower alcohol. These wines allow food to taste like food.”

Read more at source: The Drink Business