Overshadowed by Marlborough’s glamorous, bustling, ever-expanding industry over the hills to the south-east, Nelson is one of the country’s small wine regions. This year, it produced just over 2% of New Zealand wine. But the 35 almost entirely family-owned wineries produce some terrific whites and reds that are worth discovering.
Unlike Marlborough, which is renowned for sauvignon blanc, and Central Otago, which is famous for pinot noir, Nelson hasn’t built a reputation on a single grape variety. Some see this as a disadvantage, but this highly versatile region is succeeding with several styles – notably sauvignon blanc (well over half the total crop in 2016), riesling, gewürz­traminer, pinot gris, chardonnay and pinot noir.

Brightwater Vineyards Nelson Riesling 2015 •••••
A great buy, this beauty was estate-grown and hand-harvested on the Waimea Plains. Richly scented, it is light-bodied (10.5% alc/vol), with penetrating lemon, lime, apricot and nectarine flavours, and an off-dry, mouthwateringly crisp finish. Fresh and concentrated, it’s already highly expressive, but well worth cellaring. $20

LS3716_44_wine_Greenhough-Hope-HCH2014Greenhough Hope Vineyard Chardonnay 2014 •••••
This is a classic Nelson wine, typically complex and creamy, with impressive subtlety and richness. Certified organic, the 2014 was estate-grown, hand-picked, barrel-fermented and given a full, softening malolactic fermentation. Notably refined, it is full-bodied (14% alc/vol), with penetrating citrusy flavours, gently seasoned with oak, and lovely freshness, drive and depth. $36

Harakeke Farm Nelson Chardonnay 2014 •••••
Offering top value, this single-vineyard, Upper Moutere wine is hand-picked and fermented with indigenous yeasts in French oak puncheons. A powerful, strapping wine (14.5% alc/vol), it is sweet-fruited and rich, with concentrated, peachy, mealy, gently toasty and buttery flavours, balanced acidity and a complex, highly fragrant bouquet. A “full-on” style, it is already delicious. $30

Neudorf Moutere Albariño 2015 •••••
From a fashionable Spanish variety, this is an exciting debut. Estate-grown, it was fermented in a 4:1 mix of stainless-steel tanks and old oak puncheons. Mouthfilling (13.5% alc/vol) and dry, it has excellent vigour and intensity of fresh, ripe, citrusy, peachy flavours, a slightly salty streak, a touch of complexity and a tangy, lasting finish. Full of personality. $33

Blackenbrook Nelson Pinot Gris 2015 ••••½
Swiss-born Daniel and Ursula Schwarzenbach planted their first vines at Tasman in 2001 and enjoy a strong reputation for aromatic white wines. Handled in tanks (mostly) and old oak barrels, this is a ripely scented, sturdy wine (14.5% alc/vol), with generous, vibrant, peachy, slightly spicy flavours and an off-dry, finely balanced finish. $24

Brightwater Vineyards Lord Rutherford Barrique Nelson Sauvignon Blanc 2015 ••••½
Named after the illustrious scientist, born “just down the road”, this fleshy, mouthfilling wine (13.5% alc/vol) was estate-grown at Hope and fermented and matured in French oak barrels. Still youthful, it is fresh and generous, with crisp acidity and strong tropical-fruit flavours, rich and harmonious. Best drinking 2017 plus. $30

Greenhough Nelson Sauvignon Blanc 2015 ••••½
From a small, long-established producer, nestled into an elevated south-east corner of the Waimea Plains, this is a consistently rewarding wine. Certified organic and partly barrel-fermented, it is fleshy, mouthfilling (14% alc/vol) and sweet-fruited, with strong, vibrant tropical-fruit flavours, a herbaceous undercurrent, a touch of complexity and a long, dry, well-rounded finish. $22

Continue reading on Michael Cooper’s top Nelson wine picks